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African American Hair Style

The history of "Black Hair and Beauty Culture" mirrors the intricacy of both African and American cultures. Over the years, African American hair has been associated with the ideology of white visual conception. Some people say that Blacks have embraced hairstyles and beauty methods that reflect popular European standards of beauty. However, Blacks have used their West African roots and their own artistry to create styles and standards that reflect a unique Black culture.

Around 1441 when African slaves were brought west to the "New World," they were confronted with their first loss of identity. It was then that the one and only identity they had, was stripped from them. The standards of beauty that they encountered were the privilege of fair skin, straight hair, and thin features, in contrast to "African" dark skin, curly hair, and wider noses and mouths. Some slaves had to get accustomed to the European beauty styles to survive (literally). Often times they would serve as barbers and/or beauticians for their white owners. Other slaves attempted to stay with their traditional African hair customs; for example, braiding hair using African patterns and using natural herbs from trees for their hair and skin care.

Many Blacks argue that imitating European standards of beauty and grooming was necessary for Blacks to be accepted by white culture, especially by potential white masters and employers. For generations hairstyles have reflected the history of American race relations and the way Blacks wore their hair reflected the dominant white culture. African-American hair was straightened, combed, or parted to mimic Western coiffures. In response to the propaganda in Black communities to accept the European standards of beauty, the Black hair care market expanded.

Over the years African Americans have thrown away the European standards of beauty. During the 1960's the “Afro” debuted and with it the concept of Black is Beautiful. During the 80's and the 90's West African traditional hairstyles began to resurface in the Black community. Many people were getting braids with the traditional West African patterns. There are many beauty shops that are designed to create only West African traditional hairstyles.

Near the end of the twentieth century, relaxed hair became popular again in a wide range of short and long styles, while the new jheri curl used a different chemical to create loose, wet curls for both men and women. Women and men chose dreadlocks, twist, corkscrews, fades, and other styles that used the benefits of Black hair's natural texture. Despite the economic depression in many Black neighborhoods, hair salons (for women) and barber shops (for men) remain among the most successful Black business in urban communities, and even African Americans who move to predominately white suburbs often return to Black urban neighborhoods to get their hair done.

Still, Blacks are losing control over the Black hair care market. Business by business, mergers and acquisitions are taking apart Black-owned hair care endevours. A moment of truth came when L'Oreal acquired Carson. The result was the top two-Black owned hair care companies (Johnson Products and Soft Sheen) were joined under L'Oreal’s ownership. Many white business people know kind of money Black people put into their hair care and want a part of that market.

The popularity of natural African American hairstyles has also developed an Internet following. There are many cosmetology-related jobs in other websites with information, products, and tips for African American hair care. Websites devoted to natural styles, braids and dreadlocks are growing too. Black Hair Media is one of the more comprehensive sites online. Nappy Hair is another online resource for anyone who needs guidance managing natural hair. Offline, many books have been published on the topic, among the most recent is the 2003-released, "Hair Rules: The Ultimate Hair-Care Guide for Women with Kinky, Curly, or Wavy Hair," by New York City stylist, Anthony Dickey.


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African American Hair Care

If You Want Healthier Hair, Eat This

Omega-3 fatty acids
Salmon, mackerel, halibut, sardines, herring, flaxseeds, flaxseed oil, canola oil, soybeans, soybean oil, pumpkin seeds, pumpkin seed oil, walnuts, and walnut oil.

Zinc
Oysters, cereal, Alaskan King crab, the dark meat of turkey, cashews, sunflower seeds, spinach, kidney beans, and tofu.

Vitamin B-6
Bananas, salmon, light meat of chicken, sweet potato with the skin, cod, watermelon, and spinach.

Vitamin B-12
Cereal, top round steak, canned tuna packed in water, flounder, turkey breast, fruit-flavored yogurt, skim milk, and mozzarella cheese.

Selenium
Baked potatoes with the skin, roasted pork loin, eggs, top sirloin, turkey breast, wheat germ, whole wheat bread, and cashews.

Source: Naani.com

Scalp Care: Dandruff

Dandruff

What is it? "Dandruff" generally refers to a condition in which skin cells are shed at an excessive rate. It is categorized by shiny, silvery or dust-like scales that easily separate from the scalp.

Symptoms? Most people who suffer from dandruff state that there's excessive itching of the scalp. When the hair is scratched, combed or brushed, the scales loosen from the scalp and accumulate on the hair and clothing.

Who Gets It and What are the Causes? Dandruff is NOT an indication of filth.

It's estimated that over half of us suffer from dandruff at some point in our lives and researchers believe that the cause has less to do with cleanliness and more with a change in diet and/or metabolic rate.

Believe it or not, sharing combs and brushes can also lead to dandruff. It actually has a contagious effect. So if you're in a large family, be sure that you avoid sharing brushes and combs. If possible, store your combs in alcohol to avoid passing the problem from one person to another.

Other causes of dandruff include prescription and non-prescription drug usage, puberty, heredity, stress, allergies, cold weather, low humidity, dry indoor conditions and although unproven, a common fungus found on the body.

How can I prevent it? Remember, you are what you eat. Too much caffeine, processed, greasy or spicy foods are believed to cause an increase in dandruff. By drinking more water, you can actually reduce or eliminate the condition.

Dairy, chocolate and certain nuts have also been linked to an increase in dandruff. Increasing your intake of raw fruits and vegetables are a good way to not only improve your help, but reduce dandruff.

Invest in a humidifier if you live in hot, dry or cold climates. By balancing your indoor conditions, you can infuse your hair and scalp with necessary moisture while you eat, sleep, cook or just lounge.

Is there a cure? There are tons of over-the-counter treatment solutions available to treat dandruff. Read the list below for the various types of medicated shampoos.

Thing is, in order to be effective, these treatments often have to be used daily until the condition subsides and not many black folk wash their hair daily. Not to mention, some varieties can be drying so unless otherwise directed, be sure to condition your hair.

Supplements can also help to improve your dandruff condition although the effectiveness of some are not proven. Zinc lozenges, vitamins B6, B complex and E and primrose oil are recommended by naturalists. Some of these are better ingested and others used topically. In addition, supplements containing beta-carotene and vitamin A as well as lecithin are said to help because they strengthen the hair.

So outside of trying to wash your hair as often as possible with a medicated shampoo, you can also try to initiate changes in your diet. Drink more water, stay away from fried foods... In addition, avoid contact with dermatitis by cleaning combs and brushes periodically (even your own).

The easiest at home cure is to brush the hair with a gentle natural bristle brush or if you have dreads, try giving your scalp a daily massage. Doing so will help stimulate blood flow and circulation which encourages hair growth. It also will loosen the dirt and dandruff which tend to suffocate the follicles causing the hair to weaken.

Types of Anti-Dandruff & Anti-Fungal Treatments To date, the FDA has approved six active ingredients for the treatment of dandruff (October, 2002). These ingredients appear below in alphabetical order:

Coal-tar slows skin cell production but has a distinct odor. It is very effective in treating dandruff. Varying percentages of coal tar are found in the most popular/effective OTC dandruff shampoos. There has been recent commotion surrounding the belief that coal-tar has carcinogenic properties but the FDA rejected this claim in 2001 (read FDA article).

Ketoconazole has antifungal properties but isn't recommended for those under the age of 12. Nizoral is currently the only shampoo containing this ingredient. There has been a great deal of research surrounding this active ingredient and it has proven very effective in the treatment of dandruff.

Pyrithione Zinc reduces itching and flaking.

Salicyclic Acid removes scales and promotes water retention by causing a mild inflammation of your skin cells. This leads to an overproduction of skin cells and although this is the primary cause of dandruff, salicyclic acid works. It's often mixed with sulfur to treat dandruff.

Selenium Sulfide has anti-fungal properties and slows the production of skin cells. Some professionals do not recommend it's use on color-treated hair.

Sulfur is often combined with salicyclic acid. Sulfur has antiseptic properties and helps loosen flakes so that they may be washed away. Some argue that it causes discoloration.

NATURAL ALTERNATIVE (not currently on FDA list) Tea-Tree Essential Oil has natural anti-fungal properties and is effective at treating dandruff. A small percent of the population has an allergic reaction to this natural extract so do a small patch-test before using.

Source: Naani.com



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