The history of "Black Hair and Beauty Culture" mirrors the intricacy of both African and American cultures. Over the years, African American hair has been associated with the ideology of white visual conception. Some people say that Blacks have embraced hairstyles and beauty methods that reflect popular European standards of beauty. However, Blacks have used their West African roots and their own artistry to create styles and standards that reflect a unique Black culture.
Around 1441 when African slaves were brought west to the "New World," they were confronted with their first loss of identity. It was then that the one and only identity they had, was stripped from them. The standards of beauty that they encountered were the privilege of fair skin, straight hair, and thin features, in contrast to "African" dark skin, curly hair, and wider noses and mouths. Some slaves had to get accustomed to the European beauty styles to survive (literally). Often times they would serve as barbers and/or beauticians for their white owners. Other slaves attempted to stay with their traditional African hair customs; for example, braiding hair using African patterns and using natural herbs from trees for their hair and skin care.
Many Blacks argue that imitating European standards of beauty and grooming was necessary for Blacks to be accepted by white culture, especially by potential white masters and employers. For generations hairstyles have reflected the history of American race relations and the way Blacks wore their hair reflected the dominant white culture. African-American hair was straightened, combed, or parted to mimic Western coiffures. In response to the propaganda in Black communities to accept the European standards of beauty, the Black hair care market expanded.
Over the years African Americans have thrown away the European standards of beauty. During the 1960's the “Afro” debuted and with it the concept of Black is Beautiful. During the 80's and the 90's West African traditional hairstyles began to resurface in the Black community. Many people were getting braids with the traditional West African patterns. There are many beauty shops that are designed to create only West African traditional hairstyles.
Near the end of the twentieth century, relaxed hair became popular again in a wide range of short and long styles, while the new jheri curl used a different chemical to create loose, wet curls for both men and women. Women and men chose dreadlocks, twist, corkscrews, fades, and other styles that used the benefits of Black hair's natural texture. Despite the economic depression in many Black neighborhoods, hair salons (for women) and barber shops (for men) remain among the most successful Black business in urban communities, and even African Americans who move to predominately white suburbs often return to Black urban neighborhoods to get their hair done.
Still, Blacks are losing control over the Black hair care market. Business by business, mergers and acquisitions are taking apart Black-owned hair care endevours. A moment of truth came when L'Oreal acquired Carson. The result was the top two-Black owned hair care companies (Johnson Products and Soft Sheen) were joined under L'Oreal’s ownership. Many white business people know kind of money Black people put into their hair care and want a part of that market.
The popularity of natural African American hairstyles has also developed an Internet following. There are many cosmetology-related jobs in other websites with information, products, and tips for African American hair care. Websites devoted to natural styles, braids and dreadlocks are growing too. Black Hair Media is one of the more comprehensive sites online. Nappy Hair is another online resource for anyone who needs guidance managing natural hair. Offline, many books have been published on the topic, among the most recent is the 2003-released, "Hair Rules: The Ultimate Hair-Care Guide for Women with Kinky, Curly, or Wavy Hair," by New York City stylist, Anthony Dickey.
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African American Hair
What differentiates African American hair from other types of hair?
When you consider the structure of African American hair as compared to other, straight hair types, you may wonder why or how this type of hair developed into a kinky, coily pattern. Currently the prevailing theory is one that has to deal with Adaptation.
Adaptation is a term that describes how African American hair has developed over time. Anthropologists believe that due to the high temperatures found throughout the continent of Africa, African hair has adapted to protect the scalp from the harmful rays of the sun. As a result, our hair appears kinky and usually forms tight masses of coarse hair. Whether or not this theory is true, well your guess is as good as mine.
Some say that African hair is fragile. In reality, it just has to be cared for differently. See, every twist in African hair represents a breaking point. Thus, individuals with curlier hair usually suffer because their hair strands are shorter, more elliptical in pattern and is more susceptible to tangling, knotting and breakage relative to other hair types.
If you're the type who aggressively styles, combs, brushes or manipulates your hair, then you may unknowingly be putting stress on the various points of curvature. Think of it this way, with straight hair you can move a comb through in one smooth motion because there aren't any bumps/curls to disrupt the action.
With kinky hair, each curl/kink is like a speed bump. Comb too quickly and you can literally hear your hair breaking and ripping. Comb slowly and you'll eventually meet an impasse. This is why when you comb natural black hair, it's a good idea to gradually work your way to the ends by inserting and reinserting the comb rather than attempting to comb in one motion.
Despite this adaptation, African American hair is almost chemically identical to other hair types. What makes the African American hair type different from Caucasoid or Asian hair is the bonding and wave pattern. Bonding refers to the structure of our hair and as above stated, the tighter the bond, the curlier and more fragile the hair.
The primary bonds found in this hair type are hydrogen and polypeptides. Hydrogen breaks down in the presence of water and then reforms in its absence. This is what accounts for the hair's flexibility. This is why your hair stretches in humid environments or when wet.
Polypeptides found in Keratin, which comprises roughly 88% of hair, accounts for your hair's strength. These bonds are more difficult to break and require the addition of a strong base (remember acids and bases from chemistry?) to be destroyed. What is a strong base? A relaxer. When you relax your hair, you destroy polypeptide bonds. Thing is, once these bonds are destroyed, unlike hydrogen, they can never be repaired... they are forever altered. This is why in order to return your hair to its natural state, you gotta cut off the relaxed ends.
Hair Structure
Despite our racial differences, the structure of hair is the same across the board.
Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair. It is made up of a single layer of scales which interlock with the cells of the hair's inner root sheath to firmly anchor it in the follicle.
Cortex: The middle layer. It is composed of keratinized cells which are tightly bound around one another. These fibril bands provide the hair with elasticity and strength and are very susceptible to chemicals and as a result can easily be damaged by dyes and relaxers.
Melanin is contained in the cortex and is the substance that determines the color of our hair and skin. The more melanin, the darker the pigmentation.
Follicle: This is the name for hair before it emerges from the skin. Follicles are composed of many elements including carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Therefore a healthy flow of these elements can greatly improve the hairs' condition and appearance once it emerges.
Medulla: The medulla consists of large, loosely connected cells with intracellular air spaces. By reflecting light these air spaces determine the sheen and color tones of the hair.
Sebaceous/Sudoniferous Glands: Attached to the hair follicle are the sebaceous (oil) and the sudoriferous (sweat) glands. The sebaceous glands produce waste by opening and closing continuously to release a waxy sebum oil into the hair follicle and onto the scalp. The sudoriferous glands contain many small structures with porous openings leading to the skin. They produce substances which dry on the skin including salts, acids, water secretion and bacteria. If not completely dissolved and effectively removed from the scalp, they can help cause severe itching and dandruff.
