The history of "Black Hair and Beauty Culture" mirrors the intricacy of both African and American cultures. Over the years, African American hair has been associated with the ideology of white visual conception. Some people say that Blacks have embraced hairstyles and beauty methods that reflect popular European standards of beauty. However, Blacks have used their West African roots and their own artistry to create styles and standards that reflect a unique Black culture.
Around 1441 when African slaves were brought west to the "New World," they were confronted with their first loss of identity. It was then that the one and only identity they had, was stripped from them. The standards of beauty that they encountered were the privilege of fair skin, straight hair, and thin features, in contrast to "African" dark skin, curly hair, and wider noses and mouths. Some slaves had to get accustomed to the European beauty styles to survive (literally). Often times they would serve as barbers and/or beauticians for their white owners. Other slaves attempted to stay with their traditional African hair customs; for example, braiding hair using African patterns and using natural herbs from trees for their hair and skin care.
Many Blacks argue that imitating European standards of beauty and grooming was necessary for Blacks to be accepted by white culture, especially by potential white masters and employers. For generations hairstyles have reflected the history of American race relations and the way Blacks wore their hair reflected the dominant white culture. African-American hair was straightened, combed, or parted to mimic Western coiffures. In response to the propaganda in Black communities to accept the European standards of beauty, the Black hair care market expanded.
Over the years African Americans have thrown away the European standards of beauty. During the 1960's the “Afro” debuted and with it the concept of Black is Beautiful. During the 80's and the 90's West African traditional hairstyles began to resurface in the Black community. Many people were getting braids with the traditional West African patterns. There are many beauty shops that are designed to create only West African traditional hairstyles.
Near the end of the twentieth century, relaxed hair became popular again in a wide range of short and long styles, while the new jheri curl used a different chemical to create loose, wet curls for both men and women. Women and men chose dreadlocks, twist, corkscrews, fades, and other styles that used the benefits of Black hair's natural texture. Despite the economic depression in many Black neighborhoods, hair salons (for women) and barber shops (for men) remain among the most successful Black business in urban communities, and even African Americans who move to predominately white suburbs often return to Black urban neighborhoods to get their hair done.
Still, Blacks are losing control over the Black hair care market. Business by business, mergers and acquisitions are taking apart Black-owned hair care endevours. A moment of truth came when L'Oreal acquired Carson. The result was the top two-Black owned hair care companies (Johnson Products and Soft Sheen) were joined under L'Oreal’s ownership. Many white business people know kind of money Black people put into their hair care and want a part of that market.
The popularity of natural African American hairstyles has also developed an Internet following. There are many cosmetology-related jobs in other websites with information, products, and tips for African American hair care. Websites devoted to natural styles, braids and dreadlocks are growing too. Black Hair Media is one of the more comprehensive sites online. Nappy Hair is another online resource for anyone who needs guidance managing natural hair. Offline, many books have been published on the topic, among the most recent is the 2003-released, "Hair Rules: The Ultimate Hair-Care Guide for Women with Kinky, Curly, or Wavy Hair," by New York City stylist, Anthony Dickey.
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African American Braids
Although many people think of braids as a single strand hanging down the middle of the back, that is just one of many different looks that can be accomplished with braids. Yes, the three-strand braid is the most popular, but newer more inventive braids are popping up everywhere and on everyone.
Multiple strand braids are growing in popularity. These braids can hang down the back, as the more traditional braid does, or can be coiled around the head in a variety of different ways. To be successful at this look, though, you must be well versed in the three-strand technique.
Another variation of the braid is the twist and cross. Although this is a more complex braid to accomplish, it can be done and with practice you will just get better and better. Weaving is also another braided look that is stylish and fun.
One way of turning your more traditional braid into a work of personal expression is by adding things to it. Beads, ribbons, and even leather can be braided into the hair for a look that is fun and exciting.
Whatever the braiding style you choose, one thing is always constant. Braids of any kind are an attractive and fun way of expressing your personal style.
African American Braid Style
Tips For African American Braid Styles
Tips For Braided Hair Styles
Professionally braided styles are very elegant. African American woman generally choose these styles for two reasons: to allow the hair to grow out and for convenience. Hair growth does not always occur because of poor maintenance of these styles. Some of the most common problems with braided styles are:
The hair is braided too tight causing hair loss and irreversible scalp damage. When the hair is pulled too tight it causes the hair follicle to become dislodged from the scalp. You can see the evidence around the hairline. Tiny white bumps appear. The bumps are the hair follicles. Once dislodged, the hair will never grow back.
The second most common problem is leaving the hair braided too long, causing the hair to lock or mat. The result is major hair loss. Braided styles should not be worn for more than eight weeks at a time. While the hair is braided, it should be shampooed and conditioned every two weeks. Daily maintenance should include applying liquid oil to the shaft of the braid. This keeps the hair lubricated and prevents locking.
Extension hair should not be braided into wet natural hair. Wet hair shrinks as it dries putting undue pressure on the hair.
Freshly relaxed hair should not be braided for at least 1 week. It is best to braid hair in its natural state. It is stronger and better able to hold the weight of the attached hair.
Do not relax or use permanent colors immediately after removing braids. Wait at least three weeks. Deep condition the hair for two consecutive weeks prior to chemical service. If the hair is damaged, conditioning treatments should be done until hair becomes stronger.
Another common mistake with braided styles is the failure to trim the natural hair. Even though the hair is not exposed, it requires regular trimming to keep it healthy and even. Without regular trimming, your hair will have breakage and require a major haircut.
To keep your braided style fresh; always wear a satin bonnet to bed to keep lint from collecting in your hair.
Know when it’s time to have your braided style redone.
What to do when hair becomes frizzy:
1.lightly mist the hair using a spray bottle containing 8 ounces of warm water and 3 tablespoons of moisturizing conditioner (this will soften the hair).
2.lightly oil each braid beginning at base of scalp and tie a scarf around the head until the hair dries and lies down.
Note: It has been suggested that you use Kemi Oil, Mizani or Sashakira Dry Scalp Oil when oil is recommended, because it will condition, and give body to your hair without weighing it down.
